Rarotonga: Cook Islands / By Alex Landels
Sun, beaches, surf, and surrounded by more than a million square miles of empty ocean, Rarotonga is similar to Honolulu only in sun and beaches. No MacDonalds, no overt commercialism, truly laid-back people, no high-rise buildings, no pollution, and no activity on Sundays. Can you, boys and girls, say, 'Relax in the sun.' 'Cruisy' in New Zealand slang and 'laid back' in North American slang describe what Rarotonga is all about. If you go there for the nightlife, shopping, or to rub shoulders with the famous you will be very disappointed. Rarotonga is exotic, the true South Pacific.
Cook Islands / Photo © Ben Goode - Dreamstime.com
The wonder and joy I felt reading Treasure Island was rekindled on Rarotonga. Waves pounding and breaking on the reef, angled palm trees, coconuts and breadfruit scattered on the ground, and the sounds of tropical birds. The only thing lacking is pirates, but the memories of the Bounty and its mutinous crew are in the history of the Cook Islands.
Rarotonga is surrounded by a reef with few deep-water entrances, so snorkeling and diving are interesting and enjoyable activities. Due to the dominant nature of the surrounding reefs the beaches of Rarotonga are not the same as those of Australia or California--they are not as large nor do they face the direct fury of the Pacific Ocean. They do provide all that is needed for the beach experience--hot sun, scorching sands, semi-clad sun worshippers, and the smell of SPF 30+ sunscreen wafting through the air. The surfers will find their surfing experience but should get to know the locals to find the hotspots.
A cluster of mountains sits right smack dab in the center of Rarotonga. While these mountains pale in comparison to the Sierra Nevada's or the Canadian Shield, they are an impressive sight on such a small island--with the highest peak, the Needle, rising to 2,200 feet. These mountains represent the violent volcanic birth rite of Rarotonga. There is a path--rugged and sometimes difficult to negotiate--that cuts directly across the mountains. If you're masochistic join the other tourists and a few locals for this rite of passage.
Would it surprise you that the locals are easygoing, not-in-a-rush, who-cares-what-time-it-is types? Visitors who are anal admirers of clockwork efficiency, who get upset when something doesn't happen exactly when planned, should avoid Rarotonga--avoid any tropical paradise would be my advice. Go to RELAX and you'll be a happy camper.
NEW ZEALAND DOLLARS! Sorry for shouting but those three words excite me, because they actually mean YOU SAVE MONEY!
The Cook Islands and therefore Rarotonga use New Zealand's currency. That means if you are a North American or European your dollars go a long, long way. At the time of writing $100 US was worth $235 NZ--WOW!
"Hey, Scooter Boy," you ask, "is Rarotonga an expensive place to visit?"
Accommodation for all types--from backpackers to the rich--is in relatively good supply. The top-end resorts range from $150 to $350 NZ per night and mid-range from $80 to $125 NZ. There are many comfortable, well maintained 'budget' complexes throughout Rarotonga. These pattern themselves after New Zealand's Holiday Parks, which means you will have a private room but share a kitchen and washroom. The kitchens will have dishes, kettles, and cutlery. It's a good deal and generally the cost will be from $25 NZ for a single to $45 NZ for a double room. There is no camping on the island.
Food markets exist and are well stocked and while the cost is higher than in some other countries it is not prohibitive; after all, the minimum wage is $4 NZ/hour. Lots of restaurants flourish with the usual assortment of good and bad places.
Getting around on Rarotonga is a no-brainer. It has a paved road that goes around the 32 kilometers of its circumference and some paved feeder roads. There is a quaint and relatively efficient bus service that provides clockwise and anticlockwise routes around the island. Bus stops are conveniently placed all along the road.
The bus is too limiting and boring so most people will want to rent a scooter or car--there is a number of car and scooter rental companies. Those of us with muscles can walk or rent a bike. Renting a car is a waste of money unless you really need air conditioning (then why the heck are you going to a tropical paradise?)--gas is imported and outrageously expensive.
I wasn't kidding about calling me Scooter Boy--I have been converted to joys of the motorcycle's lowly cousin. Scooters are a delicious experience. They provide that open-air, wind-blowing-your-hair, air-stroking-your-skin freedom--sensual and primitive. More importantly they save you big bucks with their efficient two-stroke engines and minute consumption of gas. I rented a scooter for 4 days and it only cost me $76 NZ including extra insurance protection and I found out later, as so often happens, that I could have gotten the same for $56 NZ!
Whatever your choice in self-propelled transportation, you will require a Cook Islands driver's license. This means taking an actual road test given by one of the members of Rarotonga's constabulary. The test consists of a one-block circuit, takes a few minutes and costs $15 NZ including photo and license. The officer follows you, beeping with his horn for you to do left-hand turns. The tests demonstrate your ability to navigate the not-so-heavy traffic of downtown Avarua. Apparently a few have actually failed the test by falling off their scooters, but the vast majority walk away with a laminated license--a true keepsake of the Cook Islands.
Rarotonga is an excellent alternative to some of the better-known tourist islands and Scooter Boy highly recommends it. There is only one caution: If you arrive on Rarotonga on a Sunday, don't expect anything to be open. Rarontogans do not work on Sunday and that includes restaurants, stores, and markets. That's what makes the Cook Islands so refreshing--a tourist area that cherishes old-time values.
Alex G. Landels
PS: The rates in this article have not significantly changed. AGL 2006
Copywrite 2002
Alex G. Landels is an experienced traveller. His site contains many interesting stories as well as useful travel hints and pointers. www.aglandels.com
Article Source: EzineArticles